In Breitenwaida, in Austria’s Weinviertel, Ingrid Groiss has been shaping her own estate identity since 2010, building on more than two centuries of family winegrowing while refusing anything that feels cosmetic. Marl and limestone around the village lend precision and drive; additional parcels near Fahndorf/Ziersdorf, with gravel, sandstone and flint, sharpen the contrast and keep the range lively....