Holger Koch

On the sunniest edge of the Kaiserstuhl, where loess meets volcanic debris and constant breezes keep the canopies healthy, a quietly precise Burgundian voice is shaped at Weingut Holger Koch in Baden.

Since taking the reins in 1999, Holger Koch has focused on small parcels around Bickensohl: low yields, strict hand selection and fermentations that often rely on native yeasts. In the rows, canopy work and timing are tuned to preserve freshness even in warm years; in the cellar, oak is used with restraint, more for texture and cadence than for aroma.

Elevated, airy sites lend Pinot Noir and the local Burgundian family of grapes a cool line and mineral drive. Extended lees contact, gentle extraction and time in cellar result in limited lots that read like a map of place—layered, fluent and poised, built on finesse rather than volume.

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